Saturday, February 23, 2008
Siamese Cats - Unique Personality and Characteristics
Dog and cat show veterans are required to know their breed’s ideal characteristics. The average pet owner chooses a pet for companionship and may not realize the complexities of various breeds. One of the most interesting pets is the Siamese cat.
The precise origin of Siamese cats is unknown. The breed may have descended from sacred temple cats in Siam, now known as Thailand. Siamese cats are distinguished by a creamy coat and unique dark “points” on the ears, face, tail and legs. These marks are not present from birth, because they are the result of an enzyme in the Siamese cats’ fur. The enzyme is not activated at normal body temperature, so the dark points appear on their extremities where temperatures are cooler. The points usually develop by the time the kitten is four weeks old.
For decades, the show standard for Siamese cats allowed only very dark brown, or seal colored, points. However, cross breeding produced cats with many pattern variations, including chocolate, lilac, blue and red points. Today, seal, chocolate, lilac and blue points are permissible for showing in the United States. As the cat ages, its creamy fur may turn to a pale shade of its point color. This is especially true of Siamese cats with seal colored points.
Originally, many Siamese cats had crooked tails and crossed eyes. The crossed eyes were caused by an overproduction of the enzyme that produces color points on the extremities. These traits are considered flaws in the show ring, so breeders work to eliminate them. Siamese cats are also known for their striking, bright blue eyes.
Siamese cats have as much in common with dogs as they do with other cats. They do not have the archetypal feline independent streak and can become extremely attached to their owners. Siamese cats are exceptionally intelligent; this intelligence makes them easy to train. Some even learn typically canine tricks, such as fetching and walking on a leash.
The Siamese cat has short, smooth hair that requires little extra grooming. A good brushing with remove extra hair and reduce shedding, and the cat may enjoy the gentle massage. However, this is not necessary, because they are as meticulous in grooming themselves as most cat breeds.
Neutering will usually prevent a male cat from spraying. This procedure can be done before the male cat is six months old. Those considering adopting a Siamese cat should be advised that females may go into heat as early as five months of age but should not be spayed until they have reached six months.
Siamese cats also have a very distinctive voice, which is often compared to a human baby’s cry. It can reach decibel levels as high as those of emergency sirens.
The precise origin of Siamese cats is unknown. The breed may have descended from sacred temple cats in Siam, now known as Thailand. Siamese cats are distinguished by a creamy coat and unique dark “points” on the ears, face, tail and legs. These marks are not present from birth, because they are the result of an enzyme in the Siamese cats’ fur. The enzyme is not activated at normal body temperature, so the dark points appear on their extremities where temperatures are cooler. The points usually develop by the time the kitten is four weeks old.
For decades, the show standard for Siamese cats allowed only very dark brown, or seal colored, points. However, cross breeding produced cats with many pattern variations, including chocolate, lilac, blue and red points. Today, seal, chocolate, lilac and blue points are permissible for showing in the United States. As the cat ages, its creamy fur may turn to a pale shade of its point color. This is especially true of Siamese cats with seal colored points.
Originally, many Siamese cats had crooked tails and crossed eyes. The crossed eyes were caused by an overproduction of the enzyme that produces color points on the extremities. These traits are considered flaws in the show ring, so breeders work to eliminate them. Siamese cats are also known for their striking, bright blue eyes.
Siamese cats have as much in common with dogs as they do with other cats. They do not have the archetypal feline independent streak and can become extremely attached to their owners. Siamese cats are exceptionally intelligent; this intelligence makes them easy to train. Some even learn typically canine tricks, such as fetching and walking on a leash.
The Siamese cat has short, smooth hair that requires little extra grooming. A good brushing with remove extra hair and reduce shedding, and the cat may enjoy the gentle massage. However, this is not necessary, because they are as meticulous in grooming themselves as most cat breeds.
Neutering will usually prevent a male cat from spraying. This procedure can be done before the male cat is six months old. Those considering adopting a Siamese cat should be advised that females may go into heat as early as five months of age but should not be spayed until they have reached six months.
Siamese cats also have a very distinctive voice, which is often compared to a human baby’s cry. It can reach decibel levels as high as those of emergency sirens.
# posted by Medical Information : 4:41 AM
I'm Allergic To My Cat!
Having a cat allergy came as something of a surprise to me. Growing up, I had many pets - cats, dogs and birds. My family were animal lovers and pets abounded, so being in contact with animals was a daily occurance. No one ever seemed to suffer from a cat allergy or any kind of animal allergy for that matter.
After my teens and my last pet had died, I wasn't in a position to take on another pet for many years. Then, eleven years ago, a friend of a cousin was looking for a home for their last remaining kitten. And so it was that Kira came into my life. This was a cat with attitude (and still is!) and we bonded pretty much immediately. While she was still a kitten, I'd put her in the kitchen overnight with a little cat bed to sleep in and the litter box close by.
As she grew older, I started letting her sleep in the bedroom. It's surprising how relaxing a cat's purring can be in wee small hours.
A little over a year later, when down with the vet getting some supplies, I heard that there was a kitten that needed a home or it would have to be put to sleep. And so, Fritz came home with me that day.
Unfortuately, Kira was less than impressed with this interloper and I had to keep the two separated for several days before an uneasy truce ensued.
They're an odd pair - Kira has attitude, Fritz is much more companionable; what you'd call a "gentle soul". She's still the Queen around the house and occasionally puts Fritz in his place with a right-hook to the face when she feels the need to assert her authority.
As Fritz matured, he also was allowed into the bedroom. Both he and Kira would sleep there during the day and night, as was their want.
We all know that cats are the greatest creature-comfort-seeking animals on the planet and a comfy place to catnap is one of their major concerns. But the place your cat chooses to snooze may not be your first choice. While I didn't mind the cats sleeping on the bed, I did take exception to Fritz's tendency to charge in from the garden and sleep in a basket of warm, freshly dried laundry straight from the dryer.
The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine recently conducted a poll of pet-owners on the sleeping habits of their pets and found that 60% of them sleep in bed with one of the family. Where cats are concerned, there are two potential problems here: one is that, somehow, they manage to take up 90% of the bed and the other has to do with allergies.
I found I had a mild cat allergy when I started producing weird wheezing noises any time I was doing something strenuous. Coughing eased it for a few minutes but it would always return. I figured I’d developed a mild form of asthma, probably due to bad air quality and pollution, so I went to the doctor to have it checked out. After listening to my lungs he asked me one question: "Do you have a cat?"
Well, yes, I did. Two in fact.
"You’re allergic to your cats", he intoned.
Then he asked if the cats slept in the bedroom. Of course they did.
"There’s your real problem", he said. "What you’re allergic to is the dander produced by your cats. When a cat sleeps on your bed, the dander ends up in the sheets and the duvet and you breathe it in deeply at night when you’re asleep. Not good. That’s what causes your wheeziness. Stop the cats sleeping in your bedroom for two or three weeks and see if that eases your symptoms. If not, you’ll probably need to use an inhaler for the rest of your life."
Ok, that last sentence kinda hit me between the eyes. Much as I love my two furballs, I didn’t want to suffer a long-lasting health problem that could possibly be avoided.
So why is dander such a problem? It's the layer of dead skin that's rich in animal protein, which is continuously shed by animals. Sebaceous (oil producing) glands in the skin also produce these protein allergens. Male cats have, on average, greater amounts of sebaceous secretions and therefore are more allergenic than female or neutered male cats. This is a result of testosterone hormone effects on sebaceous glands.
So, with that information and the prospect of an enduring health problem, I banned my cats from the bedroom, threw out the duvet (on the advice of the doctor), bought a new one and changed everything on the bed (including getting new pillows). I didn’t get too much sleep the first few nights with the cats meowing and scratching on the door to get in but they got used to the idea, finally. After three weeks in a cat free bedroom, my wheeziness had all but disappeared. The cats haven’t been allowed back in since.
Should you find yourself with a similar cat allergy problem, banning the cat from your bedroom is one possible course of action. Alternatively, you can get your cat his own cat bed and put that somewhere out of harm's way (yours and the cat's).
Since finding out I was mildly allergic to my cats, I've spoken to other cat owners about it and quite a number also suffer some mild form of allergic reaction - sneezing, wheezing, watering eyes, blocked sinuses and so on. Owners appear to become at least somewhat immune to their own cats insofar as the symptoms are not as pronounced as they become when they're around other people's cats.
But, having said that, none of us would ever part with our feline companions and would exhort others to adopt a cat as a pet, as the benefits far outweigh any minor inconveniences.
Animal dander allergy can significantly contribute to respiratory problems involving the sinuses, nasal passages, and eyes, as well as causing upper respiratory tract problems that can result in asthma (as in my case). These problems can significantly diminish your quality of life despite various medical treatments. For some people, it can be even more serious, leading to recurrent acute asthmatic attacks that can be life threatening, requiring emergency room visits and hospitalizations. The good news is that most people who are allergic to their pets can keep their symptoms under control if they know the facts.
After my teens and my last pet had died, I wasn't in a position to take on another pet for many years. Then, eleven years ago, a friend of a cousin was looking for a home for their last remaining kitten. And so it was that Kira came into my life. This was a cat with attitude (and still is!) and we bonded pretty much immediately. While she was still a kitten, I'd put her in the kitchen overnight with a little cat bed to sleep in and the litter box close by.
As she grew older, I started letting her sleep in the bedroom. It's surprising how relaxing a cat's purring can be in wee small hours.
A little over a year later, when down with the vet getting some supplies, I heard that there was a kitten that needed a home or it would have to be put to sleep. And so, Fritz came home with me that day.
Unfortuately, Kira was less than impressed with this interloper and I had to keep the two separated for several days before an uneasy truce ensued.
They're an odd pair - Kira has attitude, Fritz is much more companionable; what you'd call a "gentle soul". She's still the Queen around the house and occasionally puts Fritz in his place with a right-hook to the face when she feels the need to assert her authority.
As Fritz matured, he also was allowed into the bedroom. Both he and Kira would sleep there during the day and night, as was their want.
We all know that cats are the greatest creature-comfort-seeking animals on the planet and a comfy place to catnap is one of their major concerns. But the place your cat chooses to snooze may not be your first choice. While I didn't mind the cats sleeping on the bed, I did take exception to Fritz's tendency to charge in from the garden and sleep in a basket of warm, freshly dried laundry straight from the dryer.
The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine recently conducted a poll of pet-owners on the sleeping habits of their pets and found that 60% of them sleep in bed with one of the family. Where cats are concerned, there are two potential problems here: one is that, somehow, they manage to take up 90% of the bed and the other has to do with allergies.
I found I had a mild cat allergy when I started producing weird wheezing noises any time I was doing something strenuous. Coughing eased it for a few minutes but it would always return. I figured I’d developed a mild form of asthma, probably due to bad air quality and pollution, so I went to the doctor to have it checked out. After listening to my lungs he asked me one question: "Do you have a cat?"
Well, yes, I did. Two in fact.
"You’re allergic to your cats", he intoned.
Then he asked if the cats slept in the bedroom. Of course they did.
"There’s your real problem", he said. "What you’re allergic to is the dander produced by your cats. When a cat sleeps on your bed, the dander ends up in the sheets and the duvet and you breathe it in deeply at night when you’re asleep. Not good. That’s what causes your wheeziness. Stop the cats sleeping in your bedroom for two or three weeks and see if that eases your symptoms. If not, you’ll probably need to use an inhaler for the rest of your life."
Ok, that last sentence kinda hit me between the eyes. Much as I love my two furballs, I didn’t want to suffer a long-lasting health problem that could possibly be avoided.
So why is dander such a problem? It's the layer of dead skin that's rich in animal protein, which is continuously shed by animals. Sebaceous (oil producing) glands in the skin also produce these protein allergens. Male cats have, on average, greater amounts of sebaceous secretions and therefore are more allergenic than female or neutered male cats. This is a result of testosterone hormone effects on sebaceous glands.
So, with that information and the prospect of an enduring health problem, I banned my cats from the bedroom, threw out the duvet (on the advice of the doctor), bought a new one and changed everything on the bed (including getting new pillows). I didn’t get too much sleep the first few nights with the cats meowing and scratching on the door to get in but they got used to the idea, finally. After three weeks in a cat free bedroom, my wheeziness had all but disappeared. The cats haven’t been allowed back in since.
Should you find yourself with a similar cat allergy problem, banning the cat from your bedroom is one possible course of action. Alternatively, you can get your cat his own cat bed and put that somewhere out of harm's way (yours and the cat's).
Since finding out I was mildly allergic to my cats, I've spoken to other cat owners about it and quite a number also suffer some mild form of allergic reaction - sneezing, wheezing, watering eyes, blocked sinuses and so on. Owners appear to become at least somewhat immune to their own cats insofar as the symptoms are not as pronounced as they become when they're around other people's cats.
But, having said that, none of us would ever part with our feline companions and would exhort others to adopt a cat as a pet, as the benefits far outweigh any minor inconveniences.
Animal dander allergy can significantly contribute to respiratory problems involving the sinuses, nasal passages, and eyes, as well as causing upper respiratory tract problems that can result in asthma (as in my case). These problems can significantly diminish your quality of life despite various medical treatments. For some people, it can be even more serious, leading to recurrent acute asthmatic attacks that can be life threatening, requiring emergency room visits and hospitalizations. The good news is that most people who are allergic to their pets can keep their symptoms under control if they know the facts.
# posted by Medical Information : 4:39 AM
Thursday, February 21, 2008
Serious Health Signs in Pets
When do you know you have to take your pet to the veterinarian? If you answer yes to any of these questions, then the time is immediately. There might be other signs, but these are the basic ones experts insist you must pay attention to:
1. Has your pet lost its appetite for more than two days?
2. Has your pet vomited more than twice?
3. Has your pet had diarrhea for more than two days?
4. Does your pet vomit and have diarrhea?
5. Is your pet behaving with unusual listlessness - brooding, hiding in the bushes, lacking enthusiasm for its favorite activities?
6. Has your pet collapsed?
7. Has your pet had a seizure or an uncontrolled muscle spasm?
8. Does your pet seem confused or disoriented?
9. Is your pet walking into things or circling without apparent reason?
10. Is your pet's body temperature more than 103F?
11. Is your pet having problems with breathing?
12. Does your pet have discharges from mouth and/or nose and is it breathing fast?
13. Is your pet bleeding from the mouth, nose, ears, anus, vulva or penis?
14. Have you observed blood in your pet's stool or vomit?
15. Does your pet flinch in pain when touched, when getting up or lying down? Does it display other signs of pain?
16. Is your pet suffering from a bite, large cut, or cut that bleeds so profusely you cannot stop it?
17. Do you suspect a broken bone?
18. Have you any cause to think that your pet has eaten poison?
19. Does your pet drink abnormal amounts of water? Is it urinating excessively?
20. Is your cat acting strangely in the litter box?
21. Is your pet's ear inflamed or discharging?
22. Is your pet's eye swollen, glazed, protruding, or discharging purulent material? Is the pupil unusually dilated?
Take your pet to the vet as soon as you can if you pet has any of the following signs of illness:
1. Lack of alertness and interest in the world.
2. Discharges.
3. Scratching.
4. Dull coat, hair loss, or irritated, unhealthy skin.
5. Lameness.
6. Overweight or unexplained weight loss.
7. Coughing or sneezing.
8. Swellings.
9. Constipation or incontinence.
10. Bad breath, abnormal teeth or gums.
11. Scooting rear end on the ground.
Note about pet birds: See your vet if the bird acts sick, sneezes, or vomits. Observe stools for diarrhea or constipation. Separate the bird from other birds, and keep it warm.
1. Has your pet lost its appetite for more than two days?
2. Has your pet vomited more than twice?
3. Has your pet had diarrhea for more than two days?
4. Does your pet vomit and have diarrhea?
5. Is your pet behaving with unusual listlessness - brooding, hiding in the bushes, lacking enthusiasm for its favorite activities?
6. Has your pet collapsed?
7. Has your pet had a seizure or an uncontrolled muscle spasm?
8. Does your pet seem confused or disoriented?
9. Is your pet walking into things or circling without apparent reason?
10. Is your pet's body temperature more than 103F?
11. Is your pet having problems with breathing?
12. Does your pet have discharges from mouth and/or nose and is it breathing fast?
13. Is your pet bleeding from the mouth, nose, ears, anus, vulva or penis?
14. Have you observed blood in your pet's stool or vomit?
15. Does your pet flinch in pain when touched, when getting up or lying down? Does it display other signs of pain?
16. Is your pet suffering from a bite, large cut, or cut that bleeds so profusely you cannot stop it?
17. Do you suspect a broken bone?
18. Have you any cause to think that your pet has eaten poison?
19. Does your pet drink abnormal amounts of water? Is it urinating excessively?
20. Is your cat acting strangely in the litter box?
21. Is your pet's ear inflamed or discharging?
22. Is your pet's eye swollen, glazed, protruding, or discharging purulent material? Is the pupil unusually dilated?
Take your pet to the vet as soon as you can if you pet has any of the following signs of illness:
1. Lack of alertness and interest in the world.
2. Discharges.
3. Scratching.
4. Dull coat, hair loss, or irritated, unhealthy skin.
5. Lameness.
6. Overweight or unexplained weight loss.
7. Coughing or sneezing.
8. Swellings.
9. Constipation or incontinence.
10. Bad breath, abnormal teeth or gums.
11. Scooting rear end on the ground.
Note about pet birds: See your vet if the bird acts sick, sneezes, or vomits. Observe stools for diarrhea or constipation. Separate the bird from other birds, and keep it warm.
How To Do Cat Litter Box Retraining
Cats stop using the cat litter box for a number of reasons. Once you discover the reason why and correct it, you may need to re-train your cat to use her box again. Despite what you think, you can train a cat! For most cats, it's not hard. They instinctively want to use a place with sand-like material to do their business.
To re-train your cat back to her good litter box habits, confine her to one room. It's hard to say exactly for how long, but most cats are back in the habit within a week.
Pick a nice sunny room for kitty. Set up a clean cat litter box, food, water, toys, and bedding for her to sleep on. Be sure to put her food and water as far away from her litter box as possible.
Keep kitty in this room while you're gone. Many cat owners purchase kitty DVDs for their cat to watch all day long while they're gone. These DVDs feature birds, squirrels, chipmunks, and other critters that dart around. You can set up the DVD to play in a continuous loop all day long. These videos are also available in VHS tape format.
Let kitty out under your supervision. If she looks like she's heading for her favorite corner to make an illegal dump, get her back to her room immediately, and place her in the cat litter box. If she uses it, praise her.
Generally, cats "get it" very quickly. For one thing, they get lonely being in a room by themselves. For another, it's a cat's natural inclination to use a litter box. As long as you've corrected the source of her problem with the litter box, she'll go back to using it.
If you can't let your cat out and supervise her, be sure to visit kitty often. Sit in the room with her, and keep her company. Watch the DVD with her!
Confinement is not cruel if it's done properly. If your cat won't use the litter box during her confinement period, then the cat urine odor damage is limited to one room. If after a few days, your cat is still not using her cat litter box, please consult with your vet. There may a deeper issue that you simply can't tell from observation.
Nancy stopped the cat urine odor problem at her home, and kept the kitty that caused it. "18 Ways to Stop Cat Urine Odor Problems" saves you money, time and frustration by solving your cat urine odor problem - permanently.
To re-train your cat back to her good litter box habits, confine her to one room. It's hard to say exactly for how long, but most cats are back in the habit within a week.
Pick a nice sunny room for kitty. Set up a clean cat litter box, food, water, toys, and bedding for her to sleep on. Be sure to put her food and water as far away from her litter box as possible.
Keep kitty in this room while you're gone. Many cat owners purchase kitty DVDs for their cat to watch all day long while they're gone. These DVDs feature birds, squirrels, chipmunks, and other critters that dart around. You can set up the DVD to play in a continuous loop all day long. These videos are also available in VHS tape format.
Let kitty out under your supervision. If she looks like she's heading for her favorite corner to make an illegal dump, get her back to her room immediately, and place her in the cat litter box. If she uses it, praise her.
Generally, cats "get it" very quickly. For one thing, they get lonely being in a room by themselves. For another, it's a cat's natural inclination to use a litter box. As long as you've corrected the source of her problem with the litter box, she'll go back to using it.
If you can't let your cat out and supervise her, be sure to visit kitty often. Sit in the room with her, and keep her company. Watch the DVD with her!
Confinement is not cruel if it's done properly. If your cat won't use the litter box during her confinement period, then the cat urine odor damage is limited to one room. If after a few days, your cat is still not using her cat litter box, please consult with your vet. There may a deeper issue that you simply can't tell from observation.
Nancy stopped the cat urine odor problem at her home, and kept the kitty that caused it. "18 Ways to Stop Cat Urine Odor Problems" saves you money, time and frustration by solving your cat urine odor problem - permanently.
Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Cat Toys - Make Your Pet Happy
Christmas is right around the corner and the family cats would like to remind you not to leave them out this year. While many people think their pets don't understand Christmas; that's not true. While they may not understand the nuances of the holiday, cats and dogs do understand the excitement that fills the air around this time of year. While they may not understand the idea behind Santa, they know there is a lot of wrapping paper flying and that everyone around them is getting new things to play with.
You may have noticed that the cat has been crawling in the middle of everything going on and pawing at presents a time or two. That's because he wants to be a part of the family and take part in this family fun event, even if he doesn't completely understand what it's all about. So, make sure to remember this year to include the cat in these activities. It's not hard. Most cats have a certain type of cat toys they enjoy. You can purchase a few new toys for them to unwrap (with a little help from you).
If you want a really fun toy this year, here are some of the top cat toys on the Kitty Christmas 2007 List:
Da Bird Interactive Toy for Cats - This is a simple, yet very popular, cat toy. Think of a fishing pole with a stretchy piece of string and a feathered lure on the end. This is essentially what this toy is, minus the hooks. While it seems simple enough, it's amazingly popular with cats. You may even notice when you're not swinging the toy around your cat is trying to play with it by himself.
Mews Ments 5-in-1 Laser Pet Toy and Exerciser - This present is like having a number of cat toys in one. It's one of the laser pointer key chains you may have seen in the past, but this one has fun designs that a cat will like to chase, including a mouse and butterfly. You can kick back and whirl the laser around the room and watch your cat get quite a workout trying to catch the flashing images. This is one of the cat toys that seem to entertain the whole family as they watch the cat chase the light pattern. Just make sure not to shine the pattern directly in the cat's eyes.
If you really want to have a good time, you may be able to take a couple good-smelling cat treats and lightly wrap them in paper, letting the cat rip it open. Just watch that your cat is not eating the paper. Some cats will rip the paper, other cats will eat it, If yours is prone to eating, don't try this.
Another tactic to take is to put a few cat treats in a small box that the cat will have to knock around to open. You can give him the same attention that you give the kids when it's time to open presents and he well may be very excited to be taking part in the family event.
You may have noticed that the cat has been crawling in the middle of everything going on and pawing at presents a time or two. That's because he wants to be a part of the family and take part in this family fun event, even if he doesn't completely understand what it's all about. So, make sure to remember this year to include the cat in these activities. It's not hard. Most cats have a certain type of cat toys they enjoy. You can purchase a few new toys for them to unwrap (with a little help from you).
If you want a really fun toy this year, here are some of the top cat toys on the Kitty Christmas 2007 List:
Da Bird Interactive Toy for Cats - This is a simple, yet very popular, cat toy. Think of a fishing pole with a stretchy piece of string and a feathered lure on the end. This is essentially what this toy is, minus the hooks. While it seems simple enough, it's amazingly popular with cats. You may even notice when you're not swinging the toy around your cat is trying to play with it by himself.
Mews Ments 5-in-1 Laser Pet Toy and Exerciser - This present is like having a number of cat toys in one. It's one of the laser pointer key chains you may have seen in the past, but this one has fun designs that a cat will like to chase, including a mouse and butterfly. You can kick back and whirl the laser around the room and watch your cat get quite a workout trying to catch the flashing images. This is one of the cat toys that seem to entertain the whole family as they watch the cat chase the light pattern. Just make sure not to shine the pattern directly in the cat's eyes.
If you really want to have a good time, you may be able to take a couple good-smelling cat treats and lightly wrap them in paper, letting the cat rip it open. Just watch that your cat is not eating the paper. Some cats will rip the paper, other cats will eat it, If yours is prone to eating, don't try this.
Another tactic to take is to put a few cat treats in a small box that the cat will have to knock around to open. You can give him the same attention that you give the kids when it's time to open presents and he well may be very excited to be taking part in the family event.
# posted by Medical Information : 1:55 AM
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Epilepsy in Dogs and Cats
Epilepsy is a non progressive brain disorder that induces recurrent seizures. It is very important to understand that there are numerous disorders that can cause seizures, and in order to make a diagnosis of true epilepsy, many of these other causes must be ruled out.
What is a Seizure?
A seizure is the clinical manifestation of a cerebral disorder that can appear suddenly out of a background of normality, and then disappear with equal abruptness. The term fit is often used colloquially when referring to a seizure.
In humans, an epileptic seizure is a definable event that can be classified according to categories set by the International League Against Epilepsy. A formal classification system specifically for dogs and cats does not exist, but seizures can nevertheless be classified as either partial or generalized episodes.
Partial Seizures
These are seizures in which a localized onset may be determined. They usually have a congenital (present at birth) or an acquired (cancer, encephalitis) cause, and can sometimes evolve into a secondary generalized seizure.
Generalized Seizures
Generalized seizures are the most common type of seizures in dogs and cats. There are several variations of these seizures:
1. Absence seizures (petit mal): sudden brief loss of consciousness, rare in animals
2. Myoclonic seizures: muscle jerk of one or more muscles
3. Clonic seizures: rhythmic muscle contractions
4. Tonic seizures: increase in muscle tone in all skeletal muscles
5. Tonic Clonic seizures (grand mal): the most common form of seizure in pets
Tonic Clonic Seizures
Tonic Clonic (grand mal) seizures account for 60% of seizures in cats and 80% of seizures in dogs. They are usually accompanied by a loss of consciousness, and consist of a tonic phase, where the increased muscle tone causes the animal to fall on its side with its limbs extended, and a clonic phase, consisting of intense muscle jerking or paddling movements.
Causes of Seizures
In order to diagnose true epilepsy, other causes of seizures must be first ruled out. The questions a veterinarian must answer are:
Is the cause inside the brain or outside the brain?
If inside the brain, is the cause progressive (e.g. cancer, infection) or non progressive (epilepsy)?
If outside the brain, does the cause originate inside the body (e.g. low blood glucose, kidney failure, a liver problem) or outside the body (e.g. lead poisoning, organophosphate toxicity)?
Making a Diagnosis
If an animal has a solitary seizure, most veterinarians will advise against expensive and time consuming tests for something that may never happen again. If an animal has more than one seizure though, tests are indicated.
A veterinarian will start by taking a detailed case history, focusing on the description of the animals seizures, their frequency and duration, and the animals behavior between seizures. Ideally the seizure should be videotaped by the owner, and then shown to the veterinarian. It is important to differentiate a proper seizure from other causes of collapse such as an episode of syncope (where the heart misses several beats), narcolepsy or weakness due to another neurological problem (e.g. myasthenia gravis). Features of the description which indicate a seizure are:
1. Tonic (increased muscle tone) and clonic (jerky) muscle movements
2. Loss of consciousness (though not always)
3. Increased salivation
4. Spontaneous urination or defaecation
The veterinarian will then conduct a full clinical examination, followed by a more specific neurological examination. Blood will then be taken for full hematology and biochemistry profiles. A fasting blood glucose is useful to rule out hypoglycaemia, which is a frequent cause of seizures in dogs less than 6 months old and dogs with an insulinoma, an insulin secreting pancreatic tumor. If liver enzymes are raised, a further liver function test (bile acid stimulation) may be done. Blood lead levels should be measured in animals that may have had access to lead containing materials.
Xrays of the chest and abdomen are sometimes performed to check for any other significant disease, and fecal analysis is recommended in puppies with seizures as heavy parasite burdens have been implicated.
If all of the above tests are normal, and no disease outside the brain has been detected, many animals will be diagnosed with epilepsy as further tests are of the expensive variety. If further tests for intracranial (within the brain) disease are to be performed, cerebrospinal fluid (CSF) analysis is the first step. CSF is tested for the presence of viral (e.g. Canine Distemper, Rabies), bacterial, fungal (e.g. Cryptococcus) and protozoal (e.g. Toxoplasmosis) infections. Electroencephalography (EEG) is useful for diagnosing malformations present since birth, such as hydrocephalus. Brain tumors are often only able to be diagnosed by advanced imaging techniques such as Computed Tomography (CT) Scanning or Magnetic Resonance Imaging (MRI). These must be done under general anesthesia as the animal must be completely motionless during the scan.
Treatment of Epilepsy
Once a tentative diagnosis of epilepsy has been made (by excluding all the other known causes of seizures), the animal can be prescribed anticonvulsant drugs. These drugs are not appropriate for animals with seizures caused by a problem outside the brain. The overall goal of anticonvulsant therapy is to eradicate all seizure activity, but this is rarely achieved. Most pets benefit from anticonvulsant drugs by reducing the frequency, severity and duration of their seizures. A more realistic goal is to reduce the frequency of the seizures to a level that is acceptable for the owner, without having negative side effects for the animal. A minority of animals require such high doses of anticonvulsant drugs to suppress their seizures that the adverse effects caused by it outweigh the benefits.
Since epilepsy is not curable, the owner must be prepared to give the medication for the rest of the animals life. However, if after being on anticonvulsant medication for over a year no seizures have occurred, a cautious slow reduction in dose can be attempted.
The three most commonly used drugs in the treatment of epilepsy in cats and dogs are:
1. Diazepam
Known to many by its trade name Valium, diazepam is used in emergency short term situations to treat animals in status epilepticus, i.e. during a seizure. It is best administered intravenously so that it is delivered to the brain quickly, though finding a vein or placing a catheter in a fitting animal can be a challenge. In those situations, it is sometimes given rectally, where it is fairly rapidly absorbed across the rectal wall. If status epilepticus continues despite the repeated administration of diazepam, phenobarbitone can be given intravenously.
2. Phenobarbitone
Phenobarbitone is the most commonly prescribed anticonvulsant drug for both canine and feline epilepsy, owing to its efficacy and its low cost. Over three quarters of epileptic dogs have their seizures controlled by phenobarbitone alone. Sometimes it can take several weeks for the level of phenobarbitone in the blood stream to reach a high enough level to work properly, so many vets favor using a higher loading dose initially, reducing it for the maintenance phase. However, care must be taken as high doses of phenobarbitone can cause liver damage, and liver enzymes should be periodically checked in animals on long term therapy. Annual blood tests are also advised to check serum concentration levels of the drug, to calibrate the dose effectively. High doses can also cause sedation.
3. Potassium Bromide
A proportion of dogs are resistant to phenobarbitone. In such dogs, the addition of potassium bromide, i.e. a second drug, can be tried. The potassium bromide may also be tried alone as an alternative to phenobarbitone, but generally only after phenobarbitone has been thoroughly investigated at various doses and found to be inadequate. Phenobarbitone is also deemed unsuitable if the dog has liver dysfunction of any kind, in these cases potassium bromide (often referred to simply as bromide as that is the therapeutic part) can be used. Potassium bromide is not used in cats, only diazepam and phenobarbitone are recommended in this species.
What is a Seizure?
A seizure is the clinical manifestation of a cerebral disorder that can appear suddenly out of a background of normality, and then disappear with equal abruptness. The term fit is often used colloquially when referring to a seizure.
In humans, an epileptic seizure is a definable event that can be classified according to categories set by the International League Against Epilepsy. A formal classification system specifically for dogs and cats does not exist, but seizures can nevertheless be classified as either partial or generalized episodes.
Partial Seizures
These are seizures in which a localized onset may be determined. They usually have a congenital (present at birth) or an acquired (cancer, encephalitis) cause, and can sometimes evolve into a secondary generalized seizure.
Generalized Seizures
Generalized seizures are the most common type of seizures in dogs and cats. There are several variations of these seizures:
1. Absence seizures (petit mal): sudden brief loss of consciousness, rare in animals
2. Myoclonic seizures: muscle jerk of one or more muscles
3. Clonic seizures: rhythmic muscle contractions
4. Tonic seizures: increase in muscle tone in all skeletal muscles
5. Tonic Clonic seizures (grand mal): the most common form of seizure in pets
Tonic Clonic Seizures
Tonic Clonic (grand mal) seizures account for 60% of seizures in cats and 80% of seizures in dogs. They are usually accompanied by a loss of consciousness, and consist of a tonic phase, where the increased muscle tone causes the animal to fall on its side with its limbs extended, and a clonic phase, consisting of intense muscle jerking or paddling movements.
Causes of Seizures
In order to diagnose true epilepsy, other causes of seizures must be first ruled out. The questions a veterinarian must answer are:
Is the cause inside the brain or outside the brain?
If inside the brain, is the cause progressive (e.g. cancer, infection) or non progressive (epilepsy)?
If outside the brain, does the cause originate inside the body (e.g. low blood glucose, kidney failure, a liver problem) or outside the body (e.g. lead poisoning, organophosphate toxicity)?
Making a Diagnosis
If an animal has a solitary seizure, most veterinarians will advise against expensive and time consuming tests for something that may never happen again. If an animal has more than one seizure though, tests are indicated.
A veterinarian will start by taking a detailed case history, focusing on the description of the animals seizures, their frequency and duration, and the animals behavior between seizures. Ideally the seizure should be videotaped by the owner, and then shown to the veterinarian. It is important to differentiate a proper seizure from other causes of collapse such as an episode of syncope (where the heart misses several beats), narcolepsy or weakness due to another neurological problem (e.g. myasthenia gravis). Features of the description which indicate a seizure are:
1. Tonic (increased muscle tone) and clonic (jerky) muscle movements
2. Loss of consciousness (though not always)
3. Increased salivation
4. Spontaneous urination or defaecation
The veterinarian will then conduct a full clinical examination, followed by a more specific neurological examination. Blood will then be taken for full hematology and biochemistry profiles. A fasting blood glucose is useful to rule out hypoglycaemia, which is a frequent cause of seizures in dogs less than 6 months old and dogs with an insulinoma, an insulin secreting pancreatic tumor. If liver enzymes are raised, a further liver function test (bile acid stimulation) may be done. Blood lead levels should be measured in animals that may have had access to lead containing materials.
Xrays of the chest and abdomen are sometimes performed to check for any other significant disease, and fecal analysis is recommended in puppies with seizures as heavy parasite burdens have been implicated.
If all of the above tests are normal, and no disease outside the brain has been detected, many animals will be diagnosed with epilepsy as further tests are of the expensive variety. If further tests for intracranial (within the brain) disease are to be performed, cerebrospinal fluid (CSF) analysis is the first step. CSF is tested for the presence of viral (e.g. Canine Distemper, Rabies), bacterial, fungal (e.g. Cryptococcus) and protozoal (e.g. Toxoplasmosis) infections. Electroencephalography (EEG) is useful for diagnosing malformations present since birth, such as hydrocephalus. Brain tumors are often only able to be diagnosed by advanced imaging techniques such as Computed Tomography (CT) Scanning or Magnetic Resonance Imaging (MRI). These must be done under general anesthesia as the animal must be completely motionless during the scan.
Treatment of Epilepsy
Once a tentative diagnosis of epilepsy has been made (by excluding all the other known causes of seizures), the animal can be prescribed anticonvulsant drugs. These drugs are not appropriate for animals with seizures caused by a problem outside the brain. The overall goal of anticonvulsant therapy is to eradicate all seizure activity, but this is rarely achieved. Most pets benefit from anticonvulsant drugs by reducing the frequency, severity and duration of their seizures. A more realistic goal is to reduce the frequency of the seizures to a level that is acceptable for the owner, without having negative side effects for the animal. A minority of animals require such high doses of anticonvulsant drugs to suppress their seizures that the adverse effects caused by it outweigh the benefits.
Since epilepsy is not curable, the owner must be prepared to give the medication for the rest of the animals life. However, if after being on anticonvulsant medication for over a year no seizures have occurred, a cautious slow reduction in dose can be attempted.
The three most commonly used drugs in the treatment of epilepsy in cats and dogs are:
1. Diazepam
Known to many by its trade name Valium, diazepam is used in emergency short term situations to treat animals in status epilepticus, i.e. during a seizure. It is best administered intravenously so that it is delivered to the brain quickly, though finding a vein or placing a catheter in a fitting animal can be a challenge. In those situations, it is sometimes given rectally, where it is fairly rapidly absorbed across the rectal wall. If status epilepticus continues despite the repeated administration of diazepam, phenobarbitone can be given intravenously.
2. Phenobarbitone
Phenobarbitone is the most commonly prescribed anticonvulsant drug for both canine and feline epilepsy, owing to its efficacy and its low cost. Over three quarters of epileptic dogs have their seizures controlled by phenobarbitone alone. Sometimes it can take several weeks for the level of phenobarbitone in the blood stream to reach a high enough level to work properly, so many vets favor using a higher loading dose initially, reducing it for the maintenance phase. However, care must be taken as high doses of phenobarbitone can cause liver damage, and liver enzymes should be periodically checked in animals on long term therapy. Annual blood tests are also advised to check serum concentration levels of the drug, to calibrate the dose effectively. High doses can also cause sedation.
3. Potassium Bromide
A proportion of dogs are resistant to phenobarbitone. In such dogs, the addition of potassium bromide, i.e. a second drug, can be tried. The potassium bromide may also be tried alone as an alternative to phenobarbitone, but generally only after phenobarbitone has been thoroughly investigated at various doses and found to be inadequate. Phenobarbitone is also deemed unsuitable if the dog has liver dysfunction of any kind, in these cases potassium bromide (often referred to simply as bromide as that is the therapeutic part) can be used. Potassium bromide is not used in cats, only diazepam and phenobarbitone are recommended in this species.
# posted by Medical Information : 2:03 AM
Bird Feeders - What Type Of Bird Feeder Should I Use?
Variety is the most important consideration when setting up a new bird feeding area around your house. Since different bird species have different feeding preferences, the best way to attract a variety of species is to place several different feeders around your yard. You can provide millet and cracked corn on the ground or in tray feeders near ground level for sparrows, doves and quail; sunflower seeds are highly preferred by most songbirds and can be offered at tabletop level or higher to attract chickadees, cardinals, grosbeaks, titmice and house finches; thistle feeders can be placed at the same level predominately for American goldfinches; and suet feeders on tree trunks or hanging from tree limbs for woodpeckers, chickadees, creepers and nuthatches.
Feeders designed to exclude certain birds because of size, weight or behavior can help make your more expensive grain available only to preferred species. Tube feeders that are surrounded by a wire cage will keep larger birds like jays away from your sunflower seed. A tube feeder without a tray below it will restrict access to only small birds and if you remove the perches you've restricted the feeder to only those birds that can cling like finches, chickadees, nuthatches, titmice and woodpeckers. If starlings or jays are a problem at your suet feeder, discourage them by using a suet feeder with access only from the bottom. Starlings and jays are reluctant to perch upside down but your preferred species are not.
Separating feeders for different kinds of seed will also reduce competition at feeders and avoid unnecessary waste. Watch a feeder filled with a seed mix and you'll see the birds methodically drop or kick out most of the seeds to get to their favorite, sunflower seed. The most effective way to attract the largest variety of birds to your yard is to put out specific feeders for each food. These would include:
* A starling-resistant suet feeder
* A caged tube feeder for sunflower
* A bluebird feeder for meal worms
* A wire mesh cage feeder for peanuts
* A nectar feeder
* A tube feeder for thistle
* A stationary or tray fruit feeder
* A house or platform feeder for millet
When selecting feeder locations, consider visibility from your home, distance from shrubs and proximity to good perches. If at all possible choose southern exposures to give the birds a warmer, more protected area to congregate out of the wind. Try to locate feeders within 20 feet of nearby shrubs or thicket cover. This gives birds a place to escape if hawks or cats attack. Avoid placing feeders over shrubs however as this may give cats a hiding place for stalking birds.
Now that we have discussed different types of feeders, let's talk about what kind of seed is preferred by which species of bird. As previously stated, sunflower seeds are the favorite of chickadees, evening grosbeaks, tufted and plain titmice, nuthatches, blue jays, house finches, purple finches, woodpeckers and cardinals. As long as sunflower seed is available, these birds won't eat much else at feeders. The attraction is probably due to the fact that they have higher proportions of fat and protein than other common grains. For these reasons it is best to offer pure sunflower seed in separate feeders to prevent these birds from digging through and wasting mixed seed to get to the sunflower seed.
Proso millet comes in two varieties, white and red. Although both types are readily eaten, most species prefer white proso millet. Here is a list of the species that prefer millet: tree sparrow, song sparrow, brown-headed cowbird, dark-eyed junco, house sparrow, mourning dove, and white-throated sparrow.
Nyjer seed, also known as thistle is another high fat, high protein food. It is an excellent though very expensive food for finches. American goldfinches love nyjer seed as do the purple finch, house finch, redpoll, pine siskin, chickadee, mourning dove, song sparrow, white-throated sparrow, and dark-eyed junco. Special nyjer feeders with tiny holes help reduce spillage and competition from non-finches whose beaks are too large to remove seeds from the tiny holes. These feeders are superior to the mesh bag feeders that produce substantial amounts of seed spillage.
By utilizing a variety of feeders with a variety of feeds, you will have a diverse community of birds to enjoy in your own backyard.
Feeders designed to exclude certain birds because of size, weight or behavior can help make your more expensive grain available only to preferred species. Tube feeders that are surrounded by a wire cage will keep larger birds like jays away from your sunflower seed. A tube feeder without a tray below it will restrict access to only small birds and if you remove the perches you've restricted the feeder to only those birds that can cling like finches, chickadees, nuthatches, titmice and woodpeckers. If starlings or jays are a problem at your suet feeder, discourage them by using a suet feeder with access only from the bottom. Starlings and jays are reluctant to perch upside down but your preferred species are not.
Separating feeders for different kinds of seed will also reduce competition at feeders and avoid unnecessary waste. Watch a feeder filled with a seed mix and you'll see the birds methodically drop or kick out most of the seeds to get to their favorite, sunflower seed. The most effective way to attract the largest variety of birds to your yard is to put out specific feeders for each food. These would include:
* A starling-resistant suet feeder
* A caged tube feeder for sunflower
* A bluebird feeder for meal worms
* A wire mesh cage feeder for peanuts
* A nectar feeder
* A tube feeder for thistle
* A stationary or tray fruit feeder
* A house or platform feeder for millet
When selecting feeder locations, consider visibility from your home, distance from shrubs and proximity to good perches. If at all possible choose southern exposures to give the birds a warmer, more protected area to congregate out of the wind. Try to locate feeders within 20 feet of nearby shrubs or thicket cover. This gives birds a place to escape if hawks or cats attack. Avoid placing feeders over shrubs however as this may give cats a hiding place for stalking birds.
Now that we have discussed different types of feeders, let's talk about what kind of seed is preferred by which species of bird. As previously stated, sunflower seeds are the favorite of chickadees, evening grosbeaks, tufted and plain titmice, nuthatches, blue jays, house finches, purple finches, woodpeckers and cardinals. As long as sunflower seed is available, these birds won't eat much else at feeders. The attraction is probably due to the fact that they have higher proportions of fat and protein than other common grains. For these reasons it is best to offer pure sunflower seed in separate feeders to prevent these birds from digging through and wasting mixed seed to get to the sunflower seed.
Proso millet comes in two varieties, white and red. Although both types are readily eaten, most species prefer white proso millet. Here is a list of the species that prefer millet: tree sparrow, song sparrow, brown-headed cowbird, dark-eyed junco, house sparrow, mourning dove, and white-throated sparrow.
Nyjer seed, also known as thistle is another high fat, high protein food. It is an excellent though very expensive food for finches. American goldfinches love nyjer seed as do the purple finch, house finch, redpoll, pine siskin, chickadee, mourning dove, song sparrow, white-throated sparrow, and dark-eyed junco. Special nyjer feeders with tiny holes help reduce spillage and competition from non-finches whose beaks are too large to remove seeds from the tiny holes. These feeders are superior to the mesh bag feeders that produce substantial amounts of seed spillage.
By utilizing a variety of feeders with a variety of feeds, you will have a diverse community of birds to enjoy in your own backyard.
# posted by Medical Information : 2:00 AM
Monday, February 18, 2008
Bird Feeders - What Type Of Bird Feeder Should I Use?
Variety is the most important consideration when setting up a new bird feeding area around your house. Since different bird species have different feeding preferences, the best way to attract a variety of species is to place several different feeders around your yard. You can provide millet and cracked corn on the ground or in tray feeders near ground level for sparrows, doves and quail; sunflower seeds are highly preferred by most songbirds and can be offered at tabletop level or higher to attract chickadees, cardinals, grosbeaks, titmice and house finches; thistle feeders can be placed at the same level predominately for American goldfinches; and suet feeders on tree trunks or hanging from tree limbs for woodpeckers, chickadees, creepers and nuthatches.
Feeders designed to exclude certain birds because of size, weight or behavior can help make your more expensive grain available only to preferred species. Tube feeders that are surrounded by a wire cage will keep larger birds like jays away from your sunflower seed. A tube feeder without a tray below it will restrict access to only small birds and if you remove the perches you've restricted the feeder to only those birds that can cling like finches, chickadees, nuthatches, titmice and woodpeckers. If starlings or jays are a problem at your suet feeder, discourage them by using a suet feeder with access only from the bottom. Starlings and jays are reluctant to perch upside down but your preferred species are not.
Separating feeders for different kinds of seed will also reduce competition at feeders and avoid unnecessary waste. Watch a feeder filled with a seed mix and you'll see the birds methodically drop or kick out most of the seeds to get to their favorite, sunflower seed. The most effective way to attract the largest variety of birds to your yard is to put out specific feeders for each food. These would include:
* A starling-resistant suet feeder
* A caged tube feeder for sunflower
* A bluebird feeder for meal worms
* A wire mesh cage feeder for peanuts
* A nectar feeder
* A tube feeder for thistle
* A stationary or tray fruit feeder
* A house or platform feeder for millet
When selecting feeder locations, consider visibility from your home, distance from shrubs and proximity to good perches. If at all possible choose southern exposures to give the birds a warmer, more protected area to congregate out of the wind. Try to locate feeders within 20 feet of nearby shrubs or thicket cover. This gives birds a place to escape if hawks or cats attack. Avoid placing feeders over shrubs however as this may give cats a hiding place for stalking birds.
Now that we have discussed different types of feeders, let's talk about what kind of seed is preferred by which species of bird. As previously stated, sunflower seeds are the favorite of chickadees, evening grosbeaks, tufted and plain titmice, nuthatches, blue jays, house finches, purple finches, woodpeckers and cardinals. As long as sunflower seed is available, these birds won't eat much else at feeders. The attraction is probably due to the fact that they have higher proportions of fat and protein than other common grains. For these reasons it is best to offer pure sunflower seed in separate feeders to prevent these birds from digging through and wasting mixed seed to get to the sunflower seed.
Proso millet comes in two varieties, white and red. Although both types are readily eaten, most species prefer white proso millet. Here is a list of the species that prefer millet: tree sparrow, song sparrow, brown-headed cowbird, dark-eyed junco, house sparrow, mourning dove, and white-throated sparrow.
Nyjer seed, also known as thistle is another high fat, high protein food. It is an excellent though very expensive food for finches. American goldfinches love nyjer seed as do the purple finch, house finch, redpoll, pine siskin, chickadee, mourning dove, song sparrow, white-throated sparrow, and dark-eyed junco. Special nyjer feeders with tiny holes help reduce spillage and competition from non-finches whose beaks are too large to remove seeds from the tiny holes. These feeders are superior to the mesh bag feeders that produce substantial amounts of seed spillage.
By utilizing a variety of feeders with a variety of feeds, you will have a diverse community of birds to enjoy in your own backyard.
Feeders designed to exclude certain birds because of size, weight or behavior can help make your more expensive grain available only to preferred species. Tube feeders that are surrounded by a wire cage will keep larger birds like jays away from your sunflower seed. A tube feeder without a tray below it will restrict access to only small birds and if you remove the perches you've restricted the feeder to only those birds that can cling like finches, chickadees, nuthatches, titmice and woodpeckers. If starlings or jays are a problem at your suet feeder, discourage them by using a suet feeder with access only from the bottom. Starlings and jays are reluctant to perch upside down but your preferred species are not.
Separating feeders for different kinds of seed will also reduce competition at feeders and avoid unnecessary waste. Watch a feeder filled with a seed mix and you'll see the birds methodically drop or kick out most of the seeds to get to their favorite, sunflower seed. The most effective way to attract the largest variety of birds to your yard is to put out specific feeders for each food. These would include:
* A starling-resistant suet feeder
* A caged tube feeder for sunflower
* A bluebird feeder for meal worms
* A wire mesh cage feeder for peanuts
* A nectar feeder
* A tube feeder for thistle
* A stationary or tray fruit feeder
* A house or platform feeder for millet
When selecting feeder locations, consider visibility from your home, distance from shrubs and proximity to good perches. If at all possible choose southern exposures to give the birds a warmer, more protected area to congregate out of the wind. Try to locate feeders within 20 feet of nearby shrubs or thicket cover. This gives birds a place to escape if hawks or cats attack. Avoid placing feeders over shrubs however as this may give cats a hiding place for stalking birds.
Now that we have discussed different types of feeders, let's talk about what kind of seed is preferred by which species of bird. As previously stated, sunflower seeds are the favorite of chickadees, evening grosbeaks, tufted and plain titmice, nuthatches, blue jays, house finches, purple finches, woodpeckers and cardinals. As long as sunflower seed is available, these birds won't eat much else at feeders. The attraction is probably due to the fact that they have higher proportions of fat and protein than other common grains. For these reasons it is best to offer pure sunflower seed in separate feeders to prevent these birds from digging through and wasting mixed seed to get to the sunflower seed.
Proso millet comes in two varieties, white and red. Although both types are readily eaten, most species prefer white proso millet. Here is a list of the species that prefer millet: tree sparrow, song sparrow, brown-headed cowbird, dark-eyed junco, house sparrow, mourning dove, and white-throated sparrow.
Nyjer seed, also known as thistle is another high fat, high protein food. It is an excellent though very expensive food for finches. American goldfinches love nyjer seed as do the purple finch, house finch, redpoll, pine siskin, chickadee, mourning dove, song sparrow, white-throated sparrow, and dark-eyed junco. Special nyjer feeders with tiny holes help reduce spillage and competition from non-finches whose beaks are too large to remove seeds from the tiny holes. These feeders are superior to the mesh bag feeders that produce substantial amounts of seed spillage.
By utilizing a variety of feeders with a variety of feeds, you will have a diverse community of birds to enjoy in your own backyard.
# posted by Medical Information : 1:39 AM
How Sensible Is Cooking Your Own Dog Or Cat Food?
The first thing to remember when considering home cooking for your pet is the simple truth that you are NOT cooking for a person, you are cooking for an animal - that might seem obvious, but so many pet owners treat their pets as if they were children.
Dogs, cats and people have different nutritional needs and some foods which are fine for you can be dangerous to them - you must take this into consideration.
Some pet owners begin feeding home cooked food because they find that their pet is not too interested in the commercial food being offered. Eventually they find themselves trapped because the pet will now not eat any commercially prepared food, and home cooking now constitutes 100% of the animal's daily intake. In these cases, arranging a diet composed of foods commonly used in the household may be the only way of delivering a balanced diet to the pet.
In some European countries homemade foods already supply an estimated 35% of cats with 60% of their caloric intake. When the pet receives more than half its daily calories from table foods, the whole diet should then be formulated to ensure a proper nutrient intake and avoid the dangers of obesity or other health problems.
Really, it's up to you and the ingredients that you have to hand, but a good guide to follow would be that given by Veterinary Surgeon John Burns of Burns Pet Nutrition who advises the following proportions of a home made diet for dogs
1/3 rd by volume boiled brown rice
1/3 rd by volume meat (this should be varied regularly using chicken, fish, lamb, beef)
1/3 rd by volume vegetable, again varied using roots and greens and to include some seaweed (dried or fresh)
John Burns adds 'I have less experience in the use of home made food for cats but in general cats need a higher level of protein and less carbohydrate.
'This could be achieved by increasing the meat portion to 50% with the rice and vegetable portions of 25% each. Again, some seaweed should be included to provide trace minerals.'
Cats have a very specific requirement for meat, and can't survive without several essential amino-acids found only in meat. So a vegetarian diet for a cat is really not on. Also limit the amount of liver you feed your cat (to avoid an excess of Vit A) and make sure to cook fish (regular feeding of raw fish can apparently lead to a vitamin B deficiency)
A few good foods to include
Vegetables - Green vegetables are a great way of boosting your dogs immune system, you can feed these raw or cooked. Raw carrot makes a healthy treat. Vegetables are possibly better for dogs than fruit. Potato must be cooked, and mashed potato is a suitable ingredient for home cooking.
Fruit - in the wild, dogs would have scavenged windfall fruit as well as digesting the remains of fruit eaten by other animals when they pick over the carcass, so giving your dog fruit is not as strange as it might sound. Fresh fruit is packed full of anti-oxidants, vitamins and all sorts of other healthy nutrients, so it's great for keeping your dog in top condition. Some fruits are quite acidic (as well as sugary) and may not be good for dogs with skin or digestive complaints.
Grains - Rice is universally recommended, and brown rice preferred, but make sure that it is well cooked so that your pet can get the maximum goodness.
Meat and fish - Vary the protein that you are feeding, so that a good range of amino acids is provided. Fish, particularly oily varieties are a good source of omega 3 and 6 oils.
Yoghurt - this is a great source of protein, calcium and vitamins, and is particularly good for dogs with diarrhoea thanks to the probiotics it contains.
Cottage cheese - another surprisingly healthy dairy food which is great for growing puppies and lactating bitches.
Brewer's yeast - Can be purchased from health food stores or chemists as a food supplement and is full of nutrients and vitamins. You only need to use about 1/2 tsp a day with recipes.
A few things to avoid
There are a few "No's" when it comes to selecting ingredients for home cooking. Veterinary Surgeons would tend to advise against the following foodstuffs, or at least to be wary of feeding large quantities:
Mushrooms: best avoided as some dogs will not tolerate mushrooms well and they can cause serious toxicity.
Chocolate: Chocolate contains theobromine. Theobromine is a similar compound to caffeine and stimulates the heart and nervous system. In dogs it can poison them with death occurring from heart failure. Cats may not metabolise chocolate in the same way as dogs but are also thought to be at risk.
Onions (and garlic) OK in small quantities, but be careful. Can cause blood problems including anaemia.
Cows milk: Cats and dogs along with most other mammals lose, to a variable extent, their ability to digest lactose (milk sugar) with age, because the activity of the enzyme lactase declines with age
Macadamia nuts: The toxic compound is unknown but the affect of macadamia nuts is to cause locomotory difficulties. Dogs develop a tremor of the skeletal muscles, and weakness or paralysis of the hindquarters. Affected dogs are often unable to rise and are distressed, usually panting. Some affected dogs have swollen limbs and show pain when the limbs are manipulated.
Tomatoes: a small amount of ripe tomato is unlikely to cause any problems, but green tomatoes can cause stomach upsets so it's best to avoid them.
Grapes: The ASCPA (Animal Poison Control Centre in the USA) has recently published information stating the toxicity of raisins and grapes in dogs (they do not know how they affect cats yet, but advise to avoid feeding them anyway). Eating just a handful of raisins and grapes has been shown to cause kidney failure.
Fatty foods: Very fatty foods may lead to problems such as pancreatitis. The pancreas releases enzymes to help digest the food. Pancreatitis is a very painful inflammatory condition associated with the ingestion of fatty foods.
You need to be aware that there has always been a voice out there arguing that home cooking is not the best way of feeding. Here is a quote from the Canadian Veterinarian Association pamphlet on pet food, 'A Commonsense Guide to Feeding Your Dog or Cat:'
"Why Are Homemade Diets Not Recommended? Homemade diets are not recommended because there is a good chance that all the necessary nutrients or the proper proportions will not be provided. Incorrect preparation and cooking may also deplete certain nutrients and result in a deficient diet. As well, homemade diets are usually more expensive to produce, without providing better nutrition."
Dogs, cats and people have different nutritional needs and some foods which are fine for you can be dangerous to them - you must take this into consideration.
Some pet owners begin feeding home cooked food because they find that their pet is not too interested in the commercial food being offered. Eventually they find themselves trapped because the pet will now not eat any commercially prepared food, and home cooking now constitutes 100% of the animal's daily intake. In these cases, arranging a diet composed of foods commonly used in the household may be the only way of delivering a balanced diet to the pet.
In some European countries homemade foods already supply an estimated 35% of cats with 60% of their caloric intake. When the pet receives more than half its daily calories from table foods, the whole diet should then be formulated to ensure a proper nutrient intake and avoid the dangers of obesity or other health problems.
Really, it's up to you and the ingredients that you have to hand, but a good guide to follow would be that given by Veterinary Surgeon John Burns of Burns Pet Nutrition who advises the following proportions of a home made diet for dogs
1/3 rd by volume boiled brown rice
1/3 rd by volume meat (this should be varied regularly using chicken, fish, lamb, beef)
1/3 rd by volume vegetable, again varied using roots and greens and to include some seaweed (dried or fresh)
John Burns adds 'I have less experience in the use of home made food for cats but in general cats need a higher level of protein and less carbohydrate.
'This could be achieved by increasing the meat portion to 50% with the rice and vegetable portions of 25% each. Again, some seaweed should be included to provide trace minerals.'
Cats have a very specific requirement for meat, and can't survive without several essential amino-acids found only in meat. So a vegetarian diet for a cat is really not on. Also limit the amount of liver you feed your cat (to avoid an excess of Vit A) and make sure to cook fish (regular feeding of raw fish can apparently lead to a vitamin B deficiency)
A few good foods to include
Vegetables - Green vegetables are a great way of boosting your dogs immune system, you can feed these raw or cooked. Raw carrot makes a healthy treat. Vegetables are possibly better for dogs than fruit. Potato must be cooked, and mashed potato is a suitable ingredient for home cooking.
Fruit - in the wild, dogs would have scavenged windfall fruit as well as digesting the remains of fruit eaten by other animals when they pick over the carcass, so giving your dog fruit is not as strange as it might sound. Fresh fruit is packed full of anti-oxidants, vitamins and all sorts of other healthy nutrients, so it's great for keeping your dog in top condition. Some fruits are quite acidic (as well as sugary) and may not be good for dogs with skin or digestive complaints.
Grains - Rice is universally recommended, and brown rice preferred, but make sure that it is well cooked so that your pet can get the maximum goodness.
Meat and fish - Vary the protein that you are feeding, so that a good range of amino acids is provided. Fish, particularly oily varieties are a good source of omega 3 and 6 oils.
Yoghurt - this is a great source of protein, calcium and vitamins, and is particularly good for dogs with diarrhoea thanks to the probiotics it contains.
Cottage cheese - another surprisingly healthy dairy food which is great for growing puppies and lactating bitches.
Brewer's yeast - Can be purchased from health food stores or chemists as a food supplement and is full of nutrients and vitamins. You only need to use about 1/2 tsp a day with recipes.
A few things to avoid
There are a few "No's" when it comes to selecting ingredients for home cooking. Veterinary Surgeons would tend to advise against the following foodstuffs, or at least to be wary of feeding large quantities:
Mushrooms: best avoided as some dogs will not tolerate mushrooms well and they can cause serious toxicity.
Chocolate: Chocolate contains theobromine. Theobromine is a similar compound to caffeine and stimulates the heart and nervous system. In dogs it can poison them with death occurring from heart failure. Cats may not metabolise chocolate in the same way as dogs but are also thought to be at risk.
Onions (and garlic) OK in small quantities, but be careful. Can cause blood problems including anaemia.
Cows milk: Cats and dogs along with most other mammals lose, to a variable extent, their ability to digest lactose (milk sugar) with age, because the activity of the enzyme lactase declines with age
Macadamia nuts: The toxic compound is unknown but the affect of macadamia nuts is to cause locomotory difficulties. Dogs develop a tremor of the skeletal muscles, and weakness or paralysis of the hindquarters. Affected dogs are often unable to rise and are distressed, usually panting. Some affected dogs have swollen limbs and show pain when the limbs are manipulated.
Tomatoes: a small amount of ripe tomato is unlikely to cause any problems, but green tomatoes can cause stomach upsets so it's best to avoid them.
Grapes: The ASCPA (Animal Poison Control Centre in the USA) has recently published information stating the toxicity of raisins and grapes in dogs (they do not know how they affect cats yet, but advise to avoid feeding them anyway). Eating just a handful of raisins and grapes has been shown to cause kidney failure.
Fatty foods: Very fatty foods may lead to problems such as pancreatitis. The pancreas releases enzymes to help digest the food. Pancreatitis is a very painful inflammatory condition associated with the ingestion of fatty foods.
You need to be aware that there has always been a voice out there arguing that home cooking is not the best way of feeding. Here is a quote from the Canadian Veterinarian Association pamphlet on pet food, 'A Commonsense Guide to Feeding Your Dog or Cat:'
"Why Are Homemade Diets Not Recommended? Homemade diets are not recommended because there is a good chance that all the necessary nutrients or the proper proportions will not be provided. Incorrect preparation and cooking may also deplete certain nutrients and result in a deficient diet. As well, homemade diets are usually more expensive to produce, without providing better nutrition."
# posted by Medical Information : 1:36 AM
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